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Standing with arms outstretched in the sun on his steeply terraced vineyard above the Ligurian Sea, Alessandro Crovara told us proudly, “This is my office.” My husband and I had come to Cinque Terre at our daughters’ recommendation during a longer trip to Italy. We were ready to soak up the five seaside towns and the hikes that connect them, but we found several other surprises in store, too. The first was wine. “The most important thing to know about us is that we are not fishing villages,” Crovara said emphatically as he gestured with his hands to drive his point home. “We are winemakers!” And his family has been at it for the last century. ...

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